Plumbing
In the catalog:Plumbing
Water in under pressure and waste out by gravity, in the reference house: the service from the street main to the meter, cold and hot lines to every fixture, and the drain, waste and vent pipes that fall a quarter inch per foot to the sewer while vents through the roof keep every trap sealed. Follow water from the main to a faucet and waste from the toilet to the street, and open the floor, the wet wall and the footing to see where each pipe passes the structure without weakening it.
A house holds two plumbing systems that never touch. Supply brings clean water in under pressure, the city’s pressure, so its pipes can be small and go anywhere: up, down, round corners. Drainage takes used water out by gravity alone, so its pipes are large and every one of them must fall, all the way to the street. A third set of pipes carries nothing but air: the vents, without which the falling water would pull the water out of every trap and let the sewer’s gas into the rooms.
Water in, under pressure
01The city keeps its main at 50 to 80 psi; the figure’s runs at 70 psi (483 kPa), 6 ft (1830) under the street. A corporation stop tapped into the main’s top starts the house’s line. The water service runs 6 ft deep all the way to the house, because the frost here reaches 42 in (1065) and a frozen service bursts. At the lot line a curb stop, worked from the surface through a curb box, divides the city’s pipe from the owner’s. The service passes the foundation wall in a sleeve, rises inside it to the meter between two valves, and the downstream valve is the house’s main shutoff.
Every foot the water climbs costs pressure, whatever the pipe:
P = Pmain − 0.433 h − lossesP pressure at a fixture (psi) · h height above the main (ft) · losses: friction in pipe, meter, heater and fittings
The lavatory upstairs is 24 ft (7.3 m) above the main, so 10 psi goes in lifting the water and 60 psi remains when nothing flows. With the whole house at its peak about 52 psi still reaches the faucet. The code asks for 8 psi flowing at a lavatory and 20 psi at a flush valve, and for no more than 80 psi standing anywhere: above that a pressure-reducing valve goes in after the meter, or washers and valves wear fast.
Pipes are sized by water supply fixture units, a weight for how much and how often each fixture draws. Because not everything runs at once, the units convert to a peak flow along a curve, not a sum:
| Fixture | Supply units | Drainage units | Trap |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bathroom group (toilet, lavatory, tub-shower) | 3.6 | 5 | 3 in, 1¼, 1½ in |
| Kitchen sink | 1.4 | 2 | 1½ in |
| Clothes washer | 1.4 | 2 | 2 in |
| Hose bib | 2.5 | none | none |
| The house | 8.9 → 7.2 gpm peak | 9 |
7.2 gpm (27 L/min) through the 1 in service is 3.8 ft/s, under the 8 ft/s at which pipes start to hum and erode. The water heater takes cold water at its top and a dip tube carries it to the bottom; the hot leaves from the top. Its relief valve opens at 150 psi or 210 °F (99 °C), and its pipe runs down to 6 in above the floor so a discharge scalds no one.
From the heater the water can be distributed two ways. A trunk and branch system runs a ¾ in trunk under the joists and tees ½ in branches off it: the least pipe, but a joint at every tee and elbow. A manifold puts a valved port for every fixture in one place and runs one unbroken ½ in line to each, a home run: more pipe, no joints in the walls, and a shutoff for every fixture at the manifold. Switch the supply pipe in the figure to see both.
Waste out, by gravity
02The drain, waste and vent system (DWV) is sized by drainage fixture units, and its pipes get bigger as they go, never smaller. Every horizontal drain falls: ¼ in per ft (2 %) for pipes up to 2½ in, and at least ⅛ in per ft for 3 in and larger, though most plumbers keep ¼ in throughout. That fall is what makes water run fast enough, about 2 ft/s (0.6 m/s), to carry solids with it. Too little and they settle; the figure’s 3 in building drain runs at 3.8 ft/s half full.
- Trap
- A U under every fixture that stays full: 2 to 4 in (50 to 100) of water between the room and the sewer.
- Trap arm
- The pipe from the trap to its vent, limited in length so the trap cannot siphon: 5 ft for 1¼ in, 6 ft for 1½ in, 8 ft for 2 in, 12 ft for 3 in.
- Stack
- The vertical drain the branches join. Here 3 in (75), rated for 48 fixture units; the house puts 9 on it.
- Building drain
- The lowest horizontal drain inside the house, here under the basement slab, where the laundry can drain to it by gravity.
- Building sewer
- From 3 ft outside the wall to the main: 4 in PVC on a bed of stone, kept 5 ft (1525) from the water service.
- Cleanouts
- A capped opening wherever a line could clog: at the stack’s foot, just outside the wall, at the lot line.
Traps and vents
03Water falling down a pipe pushes air ahead of it and leaves a partial vacuum behind it. Without a way for air to follow, that vacuum pulls on the water in the traps upstream, and a trap that loses its water is an open door to the sewer. A sink can even siphon its own trap: a full basin running out drags the last of the water after it. Vents stop both. Each trap connects to a pipe that rises to the open air, so the pressure in the drains stays at the pressure in the room.
In the figure the stack itself vents the toilet, and continues up through the roof as the stack vent. The lavatory has its own vent up the side wall, and its drain vents the tub on the way, a wet vent. The kitchen sink sits under a window, so its vent rises beside the window, through two floors and the attic, and ties into the stack vent above the highest fixture: no waste can ever reach a vent that joins that high. The laundry has an air admittance valve, a one-way valve that opens to let air in and closes against sewer gas; allowed for branches, never in place of the open stack. Through the roof the vent rises 12 in (305), and stays 3 in all the way through the cold attic, so frost from its own vapour cannot close it.
Through the frame
04Pipes cross the structure everywhere, and every hole weakens what it passes. The code limits them closely:
| Joists | Holes no bigger than a third of the depth, 2 in (50) from the top and bottom; notches only in the outer thirds of the span, no deeper than a sixth |
| Studs | Bored up to 40 % of the width in a bearing wall, 60 % in a partition, 5⁄8 in (16) from either edge |
| Top plates | Cut or bored more than half their width: tied across with a 16 ga steel strap, 1½ in wide, 6 in past the hole each side |
| Near a face | A pipe within 1¼ in (32) of a stud’s face gets a steel nail plate, so drywall screws find steel first |
| Floors and plates | Every hole sealed with fire-rated caulk or foam: otherwise it is a flue between floors |
The limits decide the layout. A 2×10 joist allows a 3 in hole; a 3 in drain needs 3¾ in. So where the toilet’s branch must cross a joist, the joist is cut and headered off: hung in steel hangers from two short headers, framed like a little stairwell. The wall behind the toilet is framed in 2×6, a wet wall, because a 3½ in pipe cannot fit a 3½ in stud. And a long drain cannot run through bored holes at all: over 31 ft the kitchen’s 2 in drain falls 7¾ in, more than the band a 2×10 leaves between its edge limits, so it hangs below the joists on straps every 4 ft. Supply pipes, which need no fall, pass through holes at mid-depth. The same holes and the order they are bored in are drawn in platform framing.
Where the building drain leaves, it passes the footing in a sleeve two pipe sizes larger, cast in, so the house can settle without shearing it. The footing drain beside it carries only groundwater, to a sump or to daylight; joining it to the sanitary sewer is forbidden.
Tested before it is hidden
05Everything above is inspected at rough-in, while the walls are open. The drains are capped and filled with water to 10 ft (3 m) above the highest fitting, or pumped with air to 5 psi, and must hold for 15 minutes without dropping. The supply is held at its working pressure, or with air where the pipe’s maker allows it. Only then do insulation and drywall go on.
The choices
06Three decisions shape the plumbing of a house like this one: where the waste goes, what the water runs in, and what heats it. None of them is the same everywhere.
Where does the waste go?
Decided by a sewer in the street, and how deep · lot size and setbacks · how fast the soil drains · groundwater and bedrock · cost of connection against cost of a system
- Public sewerThis house
A building sewer from the house to the city's main, which carries the waste to a treatment plant.
Choose it when a main runs in the street, deep enough to take the lowest drain by gravity; the lot is small: a septic field and its setbacks need a quarter of an acre or more; the city requires it, as most do within reach of a main.
The catch a connection and impact fee, often several thousand dollars, then a monthly charge for ever; a main shallower than the basement means an ejector pump for everything below it; the stretch from the house to the main is the owner's to maintain.
The building sewer No. 21 → - Septic tank and drain field
A buried tank where solids settle and digest, and perforated pipes in gravel trenches that let the clarified water soak into the soil.
Choose it when there is no sewer within reach; the soil drains at a moderate rate: a percolation test of roughly 5 to 60 minutes per inch; the lot has room for the field and a reserve field, 10 ft from the house, 100 ft from any well.
The catch useless in tight clay, over shallow rock or a high water table: the effluent surfaces or reaches groundwater untreated; the tank must be pumped every three to five years, and a field ruined by grease or roots is costly to replace; a basement drain below the tank's inlet needs a pump.
- Mound or engineered system
A septic tank whose effluent is pumped up into a bed of sand built above the natural ground, or through a treatment unit first.
Choose it when there is no sewer and the soil is too tight, too shallow or too wet for a trench field; the site is otherwise buildable and the county permits it.
The catch two to three times the cost of a conventional field; a pump, an alarm and power: it stops in an outage and needs servicing; the mound is a visible hill in the yard.
Here An 8 in sewer runs 9 ft under the street, deep enough for the basement to drain by gravity. A septic field on an 80 × 130 ft lot, behind its setbacks, would barely fit, and the stiff clay under it drains too slowly to take it.
What carries the water to the fixtures?
Decided by cost of pipe and labour · the water's chemistry · freezing risk · how much wall and floor it must pass · local code and the plumber's habits
- PEXThis house
Cross-linked polyethylene tubing, flexible enough to bend round corners, joined with crimped or expanded fittings; often run home-run from a manifold.
Choose it when speed matters: one line pulled from the manifold to each fixture, with no joints hidden in walls; the house is in a cold climate: PEX swells rather than splits when it freezes; the water is acidic or aggressive, which pits copper.
The catch sunlight degrades it in weeks: it must stay covered, inside; it cannot connect straight to a water heater, and rodents can chew it; home runs use more pipe, and every line has a slower wait for hot water.
The manifold No. 21 → - Copper
Rigid type L or M copper tube, cut and soldered (or press-fitted) into a trunk with branches teed off it.
Choose it when durability is the priority: copper lasts 50 years and more in neutral water; pipe will be exposed to sunlight, heat or in a fire-rated assembly; the house has a recirculating hot-water loop, where copper's rigidity and stability help.
The catch the most expensive pipe, and the slowest to install: every joint soldered by hand; acidic or very soft water pits it into pinhole leaks; it splits when water in it freezes.
Trunk and branches No. 21 → - CPVC
Rigid chlorinated PVC, rated for hot water, solvent-welded into a trunk and branches like copper.
Choose it when the budget is tight and the plumber is used to solvent welding; the water would corrode copper.
The catch brittle with age and in the cold: a knock or a freeze cracks it; solvent joints need cure time before the pressure test; it expands with heat more than copper, so long runs need room to move.
Trunk and branches No. 21 →
Here PEX from a manifold beside the heater: ten unbroken lines, no fitting hidden in a wall or floor, a shutoff for every fixture in one place, and pipe that survives a hard frost. It installs in about half the time of copper.
What heats the water?
Decided by fuel at the site and its price · how much hot water at once · space and venting · efficiency over the heater's 10 to 15 years · first cost
- Gas storage tankThis house
A 40 to 50 gal (150 to 190 L) insulated tank heated by a burner under it, vented outdoors; power-vented models push the flue gas out through a side wall.
Choose it when the house has gas already; first cost matters most; the family draws a lot of hot water at once: it recovers about 40 gal an hour.
The catch needs a vent and combustion air; loses heat through its jacket around the clock: a uniform energy factor of about 0.6 to 0.7; burns fossil fuel indoors.
The water heater No. 21 → - Electric tank
The same tank heated by two resistance elements, with no flame and no vent.
Choose it when there is no gas; the heater must go where a vent cannot; the lowest installed cost is the goal.
The catch slow to recover, about 20 gal an hour; resistance heat is the dearest way to heat water nearly everywhere; needs a 30 A, 240 V circuit.
- Heat pump
An electric tank with a small heat pump on top that pulls heat from the air around it into the water, with elements as backup.
Choose it when operating cost matters: it uses a third to a half of the electricity of an electric tank, a uniform energy factor of 3 and more; it can stand in a basement or garage of 700 ft³ or more that stays above about 40 °F (4 °C); cooling and drying the basement is welcome.
The catch costs two to three times as much as a plain tank; taller, a little noisy, and needs a condensate drain; cools the room it is in, which costs heat in winter.
- Tankless
A wall-hung unit that fires a large burner (or element) only while water flows, heating it on the way through.
Choose it when space is tight; the household uses hot water in short, separate draws; endless hot water for long showers is wanted.
The catch a gas unit needs a large gas line and its own vent; an electric one may need 120 A or more; limited flow: two showers at once in winter can outrun it; needs descaling in hard water, and costs much more than a tank.
Here The house has gas for its furnace and a basement with room for a tank: a 50 gal power-vented heater is the cheapest to install and keeps up with a bath and the kitchen at once. A heat-pump tank would halve its running cost, and is the better long-run choice where electricity is clean or cheap.
How the figure decides
07| Peak demand | Supply fixture units for tank-type toilets, converted to gallons per minute along the code’s demand curve |
| Static pressure | 70 psi at the main’s centre, less 0.433 psi per foot of rise |
| Friction | Hazen–Williams with C = 150 for plastic and copper, at the peak flow in the service and main, the hot share in the trunk or feed, 1.2 gpm in the lavatory’s line |
| Meter and heater | 15 psi at 20 gpm for a ⅝ × ¾ in meter, scaled with the square of the flow; 1 psi through the heater |
| Drain velocity | Manning’s equation half full, n = 0.009 for PVC, at ¼ in per ft |
| Codes | Fixture units, trap arms and test pressures from the International Plumbing Code; holes and plates from the International Residential Code |
Sources & further reading
International Residential Code ↗
International Code Council · 2024 IRC
Part VII: Plumbing; water supply, sanitary drainage, vents and traps.
Background reference for US residential construction. Local adoption and amendments vary; the illustrated model presets are not a statement of code compliance.
A technical review has not yet been recorded for this entry.